Enamelling, an art of fusing glass onto metal under high heat conditions to create colourful designs is one of the oldest techniques of decorating the surface of jewelry.
The earliest known enamelled pieces date to the 13th century BC and since then, cultures and civilizations such as Chinese, Egyptian and Greek have incorporated different types of enamelling to modify art forms, vessels, pottery and jewellery. The art of enamelling became very popular in the 19th century; during the Art Nouveau period with Fabergé and Lalique favouring the Cloisonné and Plique-à-Jour techniques.
Taking it forward, in my article, I will present 5 different types of enamel techniques.
1. Cloisonné.
2. Champlevé.
3. Basse-taille.
4. Plique-à-jour.
5. Guilloché.
Cloisonné Enamel:
This is an enamelling technique of making designs by creating delicate metal strips outlining the design and filling the resulting cellular spaces called “cloisons” with enamel paste. Cloisons mean partitions or compartments in French. This enamel technique was popularised as early as the 6th century AD in the Byzantine Empire and later in Germany, Japan and China.
Video Credit: Darci Shea and Lang Antiques.
1. The metal used to make the body of the cloisonné is hammered and stretched.
2. The craftsman either paste’s or solder’s metal stripes, outlining the design.
3. The enamel colour is then painted into the cloisons.
4. The cloisonné is fired and hardened; followed by repeatedly refilling of enamel as heat from the fire causes the enamel to slightly sink.
5. And lastly, the product is polished and smoothened.
Champlevé Enamel:
Translated from the French, champlevé means “Raised Field.” In this enamel process, the surface of the metal is carved or etched with a design that is then filled with enamel. The difference between champlevé and cloisonné enamel is that cloisonné involves a fine metal wire being soldered onto a metal piece to create “cloisons” or partitions and in champlevé, the surface of the metal is engraved to fill in the enamel. Champlevé production flourished during the late 11th and 12th centuries. This technique was widely popularised across Western Europe and soon slowly replaced Cloisonné enamel.
Video Credit: Victoria and Albert Museum and Christie’s.
1. After the design is drawn on the metal, the first step in champlevé enamel is to carve out channels or engrave a design into a metal base.
2. The enamel colours are then inlaid into engraved depressions carver in the metal.
3. The piece is then fired until the enamel fuses. Enamel refilling is repeatedly required during this step, as heat from the fire causes the enamel to slightly sink.
4. Lastly, the product is polished and smoothened.
This hand-crafted beauty from the 11th century is a charm to admire, isn’t it?
Basse-Taille Enamel:
This is an enamelling technique in which the artist creates a low-relief pattern of various depth in metal, by engraving or chasing. Translucent enamel is then applied to the different depths of metal which gives the enamel different shades or tones once it is fired, creating an artistic effect. The technique was known to Ancient Romans around the 13th century but frizzled down at the end of middle age. It was rediscovered in the 17th century gaining popularity in France and England.
Video Credit: Victoria and Albert Museum, Bonhams Jewels and Park Avenue Antiques.
1. After the design is drawn on the metal, the first step in Basse-taille enamel is to form a shallow recess to hold the enamel, of varying depth on the metal surface to produce different intensities of colour.
2. The enamel colours are inlaid into engraved depressions in the metal.
3. The piece is then fired until the enamel fuses. Enamel refilling is repeatedly required during this step, as heat from the fire causes the enamel to slightly sink.
4. Finally, the surface of the metal is cleaned and polished.
Plique-à-Jour Enamel:
This technique is used to make enamel resemble stained glass. Here; the enamel is applied in cells similar to cloisonné but with no backing in the final product, which allows the light to shine through the transparent or translucent enamel. This enamelling technique is popularly used in the rendering of leaves, flowers, insect wings and other gossamer illusions. The Plique-à-jour technique of enamel was first discovered in the 15th century by Benvenuto Cellini. It was rediscovered in France circa 1900 and wheeled to new heights during the Art Nouveau period.
Video Credit: The Artisan’s Menagerie and Christie’s.
1. The enamel colours are filled into a cell backed by a sheet of metal or mica.
2. The piece is then fired until the enamel fuses. Enamel refilling is repeatedly required during this step, as heat from the fire causes the enamel to slightly sink.
3. The sheet is removed with a light tap or acid.
4. Finally, the surface of the metal is cleaned and polished and the enamel remains shimmering and translucent.
Objects made of Plique-à-jour are fragile, rare and extremely valuable. Though created by the same enameller each finished product is unique and different from another. Art Nouveau artists René Lalique, Lucien Gaillard along with other French and German artists used this technique in their work for producing perfume bottles, vases, jewellery, chandeliers, clocks and automobile hood ornaments during the early twentieth century.
Guilloché Enamel:
Guilloché is a decoration of concentric design engraved on metal through the use of Lathe; resulting in an elaborate pattern. These intricate designs are covered by translucent enamels that highlight the pattern. Carl Faberge was a master at using guilloché and employed the technique extensively in creating his jewellery, clocks and other objects. The first guilloché pattern dial was created in the 18th century.
Video Credit: Guilloche Enamel and Faberge.
1. A piece of metal is first placed on a lathe which cuts intricate patterns into the metal, this technique of cutting a pattern into the metals is referred to as engine turning.
2. The enamel colours are layered over the metal.
3. The piece is then fired until the enamel fuses. Enamel refilling is repeatedly required during this step, as heat from the fire causes the enamel to slightly sink.
4. Finally, the surface of the metal is cleaned and polished.
Meenakari Enamel from India
India; a city of rich culture and heritage has been a great source of inspiration to artists around the world. The technique of champleve technique was brought to India from Europe through Persia during the 15th-16th century.
The most popular form of enamelling in India is Meenakari, the art of painting metals with vibrant colours of red, blue, green, white, pink in nature-inspired motifs. Rajasthan emerged as the capital of the meenakari trade in India and soon the art of enamelling was established in several parts of the Indian subcontinents of Delhi, Punjab and Lucknow.
This brings us to the end of my article; how insightful did you find this chapter of enamelling?
Main Image: Bhuramal Rajmal Surana (Mfrs.)
Credit: Gia, Pratiek Dhadha
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