Evolution Of Diamonds!!

“The soul is placed in the body like a rough diamond, and must be polished, or the lustre of it will never appear.” “A diamond doesn’t come out polished and shining from the mine, with enough pressure and time, becomes spectacular!!

I would like to take you through a brief guide how Diamonds cuts have evolved from the Ancient History – Middle Ages (800 BC – 1499) until The Round Brilliant or Ideal cut invented by Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919.

Diamond-Cut does not refer to shape (pear, oval etc ), but the symmetry, proportion and polish of a diamond. The cut of a diamond greatly affects a diamond’s brilliance, this means if it is cut poorly, it will be less luminous and will look dark and dull. A diamond-cut constitutes, symmetrical arrangement of facets, which together modify the shape and appearance of a diamond crystal.

Diamond The Diamond Talk
Image Source: Google

Around the 14thcentury, cleaving was the only known method for shaping rough Diamonds. Diamonds in their rough form were used as embellishments for jewellery adornments.

As cleaving continued to evolve it soon became possible to split and divide rough Diamonds along with its plane directions.

Few of the different Diamond Cut evolved are:


Diamond The Diamond Talk
Image Source: Gem Concept | Google | Berganza London

Point Cut Diamond refers to diamonds in their naturally found octahedral (eight-sided) shape that has been polished, not cut. Natural diamonds look like two pyramids glued together at the bottoms. Diamonds were used in this form until practical tools to cut them were invented in Asia in the 13th century and in Europe in the14th century. The Point Cut diamonds looked dark and dull.


Diamond The Diamond Talk
Image Source: 1 &2 Google 3: The Idol’s Eye

By the mid 15th century, the Point Cut began to be improved upon, a little less than one half of the octahedron would be sawn off, creating the Table Cut Diamond, this was the first widely recognized diamond cut.


Diamond The Diamond Talk
Image Source: Google | Eragem

It wasn’t until the 15th century when a cutting wheel was being used to improve the faceted cuts. New facets were being cut to optically enhance the Table Cut. The four corners of a square Table Cut are grinded and replaced by facets creating a stone with 9 facets on its crown and 9 on its pavilion.

Dispersion of light being very dull, the diamonds during the era were valued chiefly for its adamantine lustre and superlative hardness, and unable to reveal the value of the stone. For this reason, coloured gemstones such as ruby and sapphire were far more popular in jewellery of the era.


Diamond The Diamond Talk
Image Source: Google

The Mazarin Cut was conceived by the gem loving French Cardinal Mazarin in the mid-1600s. It evolved from the Single Cut and was the first True Brilliant-cut or Double-Cut brilliant with 17 crown facets. With the increase in facets, diamonds were starting to sparkle in the light!
However Mazarin Cut lacked the symmetry and precision of modern diamond cutting. They are modified squares, rather than rounds as the modern bruting process had not yet been developed.


Diamond The Diamond Talk
Image Source: Under The Crown Jewellery | Param Export

The rose cut diamond was believed to have been introduced in European cities in 1520, although it is also believed to be originated in India in around 1400.

As the name suggests the Rose cut diamond resembles a tightly-packed rosebud petal, with notable flat and domed top consisting of many facets, typically triangular, meeting at a point in the centre, and a completely flat base, with no pavilion.

Despite having been one of the cuts of choice between the 16th and 18th centuries the rose cut diamond experienced a decline in the 20th century, as most of the diamonds in the olden times were cut more to maximize carat weight, using simpler tools resulting in less fire, whereas in the 20th century, with the evolution of advanced cutting techniques, diamonds were cut to bring out their full sparkle, “brilliance” and “fire”.  This led to faceting of Rose cut diamonds into brilliants using modern technology which resulted in their scarcity.

Diamond The Diamond Talk
Image Source: Lang Antique Estate Jewellery | Viren Bhagat

Now, after 100 years of obscurity, the rose cut is experiencing a 21st-century revival led by master stone cutters in India. The rarity of rose-cut diamonds is resulting in higher demands. The last 30 years have seen a huge rise in the popularity of antique diamond rings, displaying rose-cut stones.


The next evolution in the diamond cut is the Old Mine Cut, also known as the Peruzzi Cut, Triple Cut Brilliant or Threefold Cut, and the stones are sometimes referred to affectionately as “Old Miners”.

Diamond The Diamond Talk
Image Source: Google

The cut dates to 1681 and has been attributed to Vincent Peruzzi, a polisher from Venice who increased the number of facets in the crown of the Mazarin from 17 to 33 – increasing the total number to 58. This had the effect of significantly increasing the brilliance and fire of the stones. Old mine cut diamonds were more “stubby” or “lumpy” in appearance, with very high crowns, much smaller table, deep pavilions. and a much larger culet.

Like the Mazarin Cut, the Peruzzi Cut was cushion-shaped, rather than round, as they were performed before ideal cutting proportions, bruting, or high technology had evolved.

Image Source: Under The Crown Jewellery

Diamond cutting in old times was often performed with greater concern for retaining more of the original material than for optimization of light performance characteristics. For the above reasons, genuine antique old mine cut diamonds may have poor symmetry by modern standards – yet having a charm of their own.


Diamond The Diamond Talk
Image Source: Under The Crown Jewellery | Google

Taking forward from the Old Mine Cut the next diamond cut is the European Cut or Old European Cut, this cut is considered the predecessor of the modern Round Brilliant Cut diamond.

The European Cut diamond was developed in the 19th century an era when diamonds were cut with greater regard to weight retention than to brilliance, the diamonds were originally hand-faceted as the cut was developed before modern diamond cutting technology, such as diamond saws and jewellery lathes came of age. The European Cut had 58 facets, small tables, heavy crowns, open culets and deep pavilions.

Diamond The Diamond Talk
Image Source: Google

How does Old European Cut diamond differ from Old mine Cut diamond?

European Cut had a more rounded (or oval) shape and shallower pavilion than the Old Mine Cut, but they did not have the perfected proportions and subsequent sparkle of modern rounds, though the diamonds were considered to have great old-world charm, unique beauty and a strong personality; and a greater scintillation than the diamonds seen still older times. It remained popular until the 1930s.

Diamond The Diamond Talk
Image Source: Eragem

Featured above are the jewels by Eragem embellished in European Cut Diamond.


Brilliance Achieved!!

The Round Brilliant or Ideal Cut was developed by Marcel Tolkowsky a Belgian mathematician in 1919. The diamond has 57 or 58 facets depending on whether the diamond has a culet facet.

Diamond The Diamond Talk
Image Source: GIA and Google

Marcel Tolkowsky Marcel Tolkowsky developed his original “Ideal Cut” also known as the “American Standard” based on complex calculations of the light behaviour within a diamond, with the intention of causing the maximum possible return in both overall amount and beauty of white and coloured light to the observer.

Tolkowsky’s work revolutionized the diamond industry and the round brilliant has since then been widely agreed to be the “most brilliant of all diamond cuts”.

Diamond The Diamond Talk
Image Source: Google

Let’s understand the difference between Old Cut Diamonds and RBC?

Diamond The Diamond Talk
Image Source: Google

1) Cut: Old cut diamonds usually have a smaller table, taller crown, deep Pavillion as compared to RBC. Old cut diamonds were cut to maximize their size and enhance their colour and clarity.

RBC are cut to maximize their brilliance i.e the amount of white light that’s reflected internally and externally from the stone.

2) Facets: Old cut diamonds, were cut by hand, with 58 bigger and less uniform facets, as compared to RBC which are cut with advanced technology and machines, with 57 facets and a pointed culet.

3) Symmetry: old cut diamonds had poor symmetrical as compared to RBC.

Featured above is a brief guide on Evolution of Diamond Cut, however, modern diamond designers have realised that with highly accurate design, cutting and polishing, symmetry and angles in a diamond can be controlled very precisely; and not only can light performance be more predictably “tuned” and maximized but also that striking optical symmetry and kaleidoscopic-like patterns can be created within the stone, leading to creation of many enhanced Round cuts in recent years – such as the Hearts and Arrows, Eighternity and Gabrielle cuts.

I would like to conclude with a little guide!

Choosing diamonds can be highly complex, several manufacturers claiming their diamonds have the best brilliance, fire and scintillation.

Well, all I will say the purchaser should do their homework, compare a number of stones and choose the one that wins their heart!!


  1. I constantly emailed this weblog post page to all my contacts, as if like to read it after that my links will too.

  2. Hi there I am so glad I found your webpage, I really found you by error,
    while I was browsing on Askjeeve for something
    else, Anyhow I am here now and would just like to say thank you for a incredible
    post and a all round entertaining blog (I also love the theme/design),
    I don’t have time to go through it all at the minute but
    I have saved it and also added your RSS feeds, so when I have
    time I will be back to read a great deal more,
    Please do keep up the awesome work.

  3. Aw, this was a very good post. Taking a few minutes and actual effort to generate
    a superb article… but what can I say… I procrastinate a
    whole lot and never manage to get anything done.

  4. I read this piece of writing fully on the topic of the
    comparison of most recent and earlier technologies, it’s awesome

    1. Diamonds are Forever!! It’s wonderful how technology has advanced overtimes, enabling us to maximize the gift from nature!

  5. Can I just say what a relief to uncover a person that truly knows what they are talking about online. You certainly know how to bring an issue to light and make it important. More people must read this and understand this side of your story. It’s surprising you aren’t more popular because you certainly have the gift.

  6. Good morning friends, I am really looking wonders that there are lots of difference between old cut and modern cut . Scientifically we save lots of wastage of diamond wt by laser cutting . Today lab grown diamonds/HPHT diamonds are available at 40percent discount in the place of natural mined diamonds . Thanks for your kind perusal please.

  7. Very nice post. I just stumbled upon your blog and wanted to say that I have really enjoyed browsing your blog posts.
    After all I will be subscribing to your feed and I hope you write again very soon!

  8. Heya! I’m at work surfing around your blog from my new apple iphone!
    Just wanted to say I love reading through your blog and look forward to
    all your posts! Carry on the excellent work!

  9. Greetings from Los angeles! I’m bored to death at work so I decided to check out your website on my iphone during lunch break. I really like the knowledge you provide here and can’t wait to take a look when I get home. I’m surprised at how fast your blog loaded on my cell phone .. I’m not even using WIFI, just 3G .. Anyways, wonderful blog!|

  10. I have been browsing on-line greater than 3 hours as of late, yet I never discovered any fascinating article like yours.

    It’s lovely value enough for me. Personally, if all webmasters
    and bloggers made good content material as you did, the net will likely be
    a lot more useful than ever before.

  11. Thanks for your marvelous posting! I truly enjoyed reading it, you might be a great author. I will remember to bookmark your blog and may come back later in life. I want to encourage yourself to continue your great job, have a nice holiday weekend!|

  12. Yesterday, while I was at work, my sister stole my apple ipad and tested to see if it can survive a forty foot drop, just so she can be a youtube sensation. My apple ipad is now destroyed and she has 83 views. I know this is completely off topic but I had to share it with someone!|

  13. You can definitely see your expertise in the article you write. The arena hopes for more passionate writers like you who aren’t afraid to say how they believe. At all times go after your heart.|

  14. Its like you read my mind! You seem to know a lot about this, like you wrote the book in it or something. I think that you could do with a few pics to drive the message home a bit, but other than that, this is great blog. A fantastic read. I’ll certainly be back.|

  15. excellent put up, very informative. I’m wondering why the other specialists of this sector don’t notice this. You must continue your writing. I am sure, you have a huge readers’ base already!|

  16. Great beat ! I would like to apprentice whilst you amend your site, how can i subscribe for a blog site? The account helped me a acceptable deal. I have been tiny bit acquainted of this your broadcast provided vibrant clear concept|

  17. Admiring the time and energy you put into your website and in depth information you provide. It’s good to come across a blog every once in a while that isn’t the same unwanted rehashed material. Excellent read! I’ve saved your site and I’m including your RSS feeds to my Google account.|

  18. Does your website have a contact page? I’m having trouble locating it but, I’d like to send you an email. I’ve got some creative ideas for your blog you might be interested in hearing. Either way, great website and I look forward to seeing it grow over time.|

  19. Have you ever thought about including a little bit more than just your articles? I mean, what you say is valuable and everything. But think of if you added some great graphics or video clips to give your posts more, “pop”! Your content is excellent but with images and videos, this website could undeniably be one of the best in its niche. Good blog!|

  20. My spouse and I stumbled over here by a different web address and thought I may as well check things out. I like what I see so i am just following you. Look forward to checking out your web page yet again.|

  21. Hello there, You’ve done a fantastic job. I’ll definitely digg it and in my opinion recommend to my friends. I am confident they will be benefited from this web site.|

  22. Good day very cool site!! Guy .. Beautiful .. Superb .. I will bookmark your site and take the feeds additionally? I am glad to find a lot of helpful information right here within the put up, we want develop extra strategies in this regard, thank you for sharing. . . . . .|

  23. Right here is the right web site for everyone who wishes to understand this topic. You know a whole lot its almost tough to argue with you (not that I personally will need to…HaHa). You certainly put a fresh spin on a subject that’s been written about for decades. Wonderful stuff, just excellent!|

  24. Great post. I was checking constantly this blog and I’m impressed! Very useful information particularly the last part 🙂 I care for such info much. I was seeking this particular information for a very long time. Thank you and good luck.|

  25. Hi my family member! I wish to say that this post is awesome, nice written and come with approximately all significant infos. I would like to look more posts like this .|

  26. Thanks for sharing your thoughts. I really appreciate your efforts and I am waiting
    for your further write ups thanks once again.

  27. I don’t even understand how I finished up right here, but I believed
    this publish was once great. I do not understand who you’re however certainly you’re going to a well-known blogger should you aren’t already.

  28. It’s difficult to find educated people about this subject, however,
    you sound like you know what you’re talking about!
    Thanks asmr 0mniartist

  29. Howdy! Do you use Twitter? I’d like to follow you if that would be
    okay. I’m absolutely enjoying your blog and look forward to new updates.
    asmr 0mniartist

  30. Greetings! Very helpful advice in this particular post!
    It is the little changes that will make the most significant changes.

    Many thanks for sharing! asmr 0mniartist

  31. I just like the valuable info you provide to your articles. I’ll bookmark your blog and test once more right here regularly. I am moderately sure I will be informed many new stuff right right here! Best of luck for the following!|

  32. Thanks for one’s marvelous posting! I definitely enjoyed reading it, you can be
    a great author. I will make sure to bookmark your blog and definitely will come back at some point.
    I want to encourage that you continue your great writing, have a nice morning!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.